Swift visit to Singapore

The perfect place to reset my brain (and splurge a little)

Adventures of an ALMOST fifty-year-old backpacker chronicles my six-month journey through New Zealand, Australia, SE and E Asia. You can read the origin story here.

It’s got culture, history, travel advice, and just a sprinkle of neuroses.

It’s free, so you should subscribe, share with family and friends, and leave your thoughts and recommendations in the comments.

Curtis and I are about half way through our trip, so come along for the rest of the journey.

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I’m going to let you in on a little secret…  we revised our initial itinerary so that we could see Taylor Swift in Singapore. Totally worth it. While still ungodly expensive, tickets were a bit cheaper than in the states. And aren’t concerts abroad the best? The fandom often seems next level.

I’m glad we visited Singapore when we did, as we are approaching the halfway point of our six-month odyssey, because the city was the perfect place to reset my brain (and splurge a little). It’s an easy city to enjoy. The metro is efficient. Good food and drink are abundant. And it’s got wonders like Gardens by the Bay. It’s easy to be a tourist in Singapore.

Splurging at the Atlas Bar

And that’s all I’ve got to say about Singapore. No heady analysis. I’m not going to bring my neurosis into the equation. The hotlist below provides a deeper dive.

While in Singapore, I reflected on my journey thus far, so I’d like to invite you to do the same. If you’ve missed any of my posts, this would be a great opportunity to catch up.

• How to plan a six-month odyssey

• Living on the edge in New Zealand’s North Island - Updated to match current format that separates the essay from the hotlist, so the essay is much shorter than when originally published.

• Awed by New Zealand’s South Island

• Reconnecting in Australia

• Indulging Phuket

• Taking a bite out of Bangkok

• Mixed up in Malaysia

I’ll be back in a week or so with some thoughts about Northern Thailand. Spoiler alert: We spent a day with rescued elephants, and they were as lovely as can be.

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The ALMOST-fifty backpacker’s Hotlist

There are innumerable places to try. We researched, solicited recommendations, and pursued a few. Below are the ones I recommend, although some come with caveats, so read the brief descriptions to get my take.

Singapore Hotels can get pricey, so we were stoked to find the Owen House. We had a big room with our own kitchen, and there were also shared amenities like larger kitchens on several floors or if you needed to iron, there were ironing rooms. It kind of had a communal vibe, but we kept to ourselves. It’s also located just to the north of Little India and across the street from the metro, so the location was spot on.

Restaurants

Swee Choon Dim Sum – Legendary Cantonese eatery about a ten minute walk from our hotel. I ordered Wonton Soup and spring rolls from its extensive menu via a QR code, they delivered it quickly, and I feasted in its no frills atmosphere. Felt authentically Singaporean.

Tilly’s – Used to be called Butcher Boy. Not sure why they changed the name. Located in Chinatown, they offer Irish fare like scotch eggs and fish and chips. While we were there, they were hosting an event for Singaporean influencers, who held their iPhones high to capture Tilly’s staff teach them how to pour Guinness and shuck oysters. Bizarre and brilliant at the same time.

Irish fare and influencers at Tilly's

Dorothy’s Bar – Singapore has one of the most vibrant gay scenes in SE Asia, so there were plenty of spots to choose from, mostly located in Chinatown. We chose this chills and quirky spot with a great patio overlooking the street below.

Atlas - This bar is stunning. Art deco opulence. It’s like sitting in a Baz Luhrmann fantasy. We could only get a 1 pm reservation, despite having booked in advance, but it was a wonderful midday extravagance. We ate charcuterie, sipped on gin cocktails, and felt fancy (even if we were not).

Neon Pigeon - Dimly lit, Tokyo street styled, Japanese restaurant in Clarke Quay, a central, riverside neighborhood. Four of us sat a small raw bar in the corner. Two American girls chatting away, an empty seat, Curtis, then me. We faced a vibrant mural of a bald Mike Tyson nose to nose with a pigeon in front of large rising sun. Behind us tables of four to six buzzed. Their ice cubes were little lights providing a neon glow to the cocktails. Before me sat a green hued gin sour. The sushi chef served us a prawn tempura roll topped with avocado and kuru and a tiny dried baby shrimp. A trendy spot, indeed.

Open Farm Community - Situated on a small farm just south of the Botanical Gardens, they serve hardy portions. I couldn’t resist a Salmon Benedict on freshly baked sourdough with a fresh salad on the side.

Activities

National Gallery Singapore - The museum was designed to fit into the Singapore’s old City Hall and Supreme Court buildings. The layout is confusing, but the architectural reuse is impressive. It was from this building that Singapore became a part of Malaysia and ultimately an independent nation, so quite historic. The museum hosts exhibits, the works of Southeast Asian artists, and an extensive survey of Singaporean art.

National Museum of Singapore - Tropical: Stories from Southeast Asia and Latin America exhibit - Tan Chin Yuan, Tragic of Blue Night

National Museum of Singapore - If interested in the history of Singapore, this is the place to go. Sections are undergoing renovation, but the extensive history galleries are worth a visit.

Macritchie Treetop Walk - I hadn’t expected to hike while in Singapore, but it had been awhile and this large reserve was relatively easy to get to. The treetop walk is a small portion of the hike, but has great vistas. If you are looking for a bit a nature, this is worthwhile endeavor.

Gardens by the Bay - Massive indoor and outdoor gardens. Nothing like it in the world.

Neiborhoods to explore:

• Little India

• Chinatown

• Haji Ln

  

  Little India - Chinatown - Haji Lane

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Notes:

All photos taken by Curtis Blessing or me.

If you’d like more detail on our exact itinerary, including museums, restaurants, etc, check out my Wanderlog guide.

I’ve put daily pics and video on Instagram, mostly in my stories, so follow me there for a day by day account.

Hit me up with thoughts or questions in the comments.

Thanks for reading. Next stop, Northern Thailand… 🛫