Two weeks in Tokyo
or The long goodbye
Adventures of an ALMOST fifty-year-old backpacker chronicles my six-month journey through New Zealand, Australia, SE and E Asia. You can read its origin story here.
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It’s the longest we’ve stayed in a place and there’s no place I’d rather have stayed for two weeks. It’s massive. It’s got more people than any other city. But it rarely feels hectic—even when it’s crowded. A trip anywhere by metro is at least 30 minutes, but the metro is nice, so it’s fine.
Tokyo has national museums, and every neighborhood also seems to have its own museum. These museums, big or small, hold Japanese and Western masterpieces. The screens, woodblocks, and calligraphy that make up traditional Japanese art blew me away. They are a style all their own. I was less moved by its modern and contemporary art. Generally, and with exception, it was less emotive than what I’d found in Thailand or Vietnam or Malaysia. It seemed more derivative of early Twentieth century European art. Japan has had significant struggles in the twentieth century, but because I think Japanese culture tends to be more reserved, it doesn’t come through. I’m not an expert, only spending a few days in Tokyo’s museums, but that was my impression.
What Tokyo seems to do especially well is put on world-class exhibitions. We saw exhibits centered on Kōrin, Eitoku, Hokusai, Kusama, Matisse, de Chirico, Goya, Brancusi, and a blockbuster exhibition on the history of Tiffany that seemed to contain more jewels than the Tower of London.
And then there’s the shrines. They are immaculate. Many sit in the center of parks. One is in the middle of a little forest. One is on a hill surrounded by high-rises. Balanced color palettes. No big buddhas (even in the Buddhist temples). Mostly calming spaces for prayer and reflection, except, of course, when a million tourists (like me) pile in. Then it’s less calming, but still gorgeous.
I sensed a quiet confidence in Tokyo. In most of the touristic destinations I’ve visited, including the big cities, there was a good amount of pandering. In Tokyo, I felt like they could take me or leave me. And that’s not a slight. I believe locals owe travelers nothing. The traveler should be grateful when the host welcomes him in. The bars and restaurants are more closed off. Curtains cover storefronts. They inhabit upper floors marked by little signs. Most require bookings or you WILL be turned away.
A good example is a small corner of Shinjuku—home to over 300 gay bars in a five-block radius. They are small and cater to specific crowds. We first went to Arty Farty, because the Nomadic Boys, who provide recommendations to gay travelers, suggested it. It was a classic gay bar with the dance floor and the stage and the polls. Median age seemed to be nineteen years old. I felt welcome, for sure, but it wasn’t quite the vibe we were looking for. Curtis did a little Google search and chose Bridge as our next destination. Even though it was only a couple blocks away we got all turned around, eventually finding it tucked away on the sixth floor of a nearby building. It was little more than a long bar surrounded by twelve stools. Everyone there was Japanese. Fortunately for us, there was a local who’d gone to grad school at NYU and spoke perfect English. He welcomed us in. But it was a total crap shoot.
The best part of Tokyo was two weeks in one place with Curtis, because it was his last stop on our journey. That’s right, he headed back early. The longer story will have to wait, but suffice it to say, he’s found a great job in NYC and is ready to return to normal life, including extended snuggles with his golden doodle Mabel. Appealing, for sure, but that’s not my journey right now.
My odyssey continues. I’ve embarked on five weeks of solo travel through Okinawa, Kyoto, Osaka, Hiroshima, Fukuoka, and Seoul. Solo travel is not something I’ve done before, save a business trip. I’m nervous. I’m excited. This will be good for me. All alone. On the other side of the world.
Right?
The ALMOST-fifty backpacker’s Hotlist
There are innumerable places to try. We researched, solicited recommendations, and pursued a few. Below are the ones I recommend, although some come with caveats, so read the brief descriptions to get my take.
We stayed at the Lively Hotel in Azabujaban, a sleek hotel in one of Tokyo’s nicest neighborhoods. It’s got tons of great restaurants. A few blocks away we indulged at Romano. It was the best Italian meal I’ve had in ages. It’s a tiny space that seats about ten, and it’s got a modern vibe. When the chef learned we were from the US, he told us he was off to Chicago the next day to cook for the owners of the Chicago Cubs. It was that good. In the neighborhood, we also enjoyed Hainan Chicken and Rice, a Singaporean restaurant that specializes in, well, chicken and rice. Next to Azabujan is Roppongi, another vibrant neighborhood, where we slurped down incredible ramen at local chain called Ippudo.
Ueno Park - You’ll want to spend at least a half day, and maybe even a day here. It houses several shrines and temples as well as The National Museum of Western Art, Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Art, and The Tokyo National Museum (among others). Tokyo’s museums tend to be exhibition oriented, so check to see what’s on.
Shibuya - I made a few trips to this area, but you could consolidate. Spend a couple of hours in Meiji Jingu, a shine surrounded by forest in the middle of city. Walk through Shibuya Crossing, one of the busiest intersections in the world. We did it at night, under neon lights and surrounded by hoards of people. Shibuya is a district with several neighborhoods. I enjoyed walking through Harajuku, where you’ll find thrift shop after thrift shop along its windy street. If looking for a well-crafted sandwich, check out Harry’s Sandwich Company.
Imperial Palace and gardens - Another place to allot at least a half day. The tour wasn’t amazing as it was quite crowded and you only see the outsides of buildings, but if you have time to spare it’s a unique activity. Make sure you arrive early, as it’s first come first serve as far as getting in. The palace sits in a park with gardens, which can be enjoyed for free, and you’ll see much of the same architecture as on the tour. Across the street is the National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo, which puts on exhibitions and a comprehensive survey of modern Japanese art.
Asakusa - A slice of old Tokyo, it was the most touristy place we visited, but worth fighting through the crowds (at least for a couple of hours). It’s home to Sensoji Temple, Tokyo's oldest temple and Nakamise-dori, a bustling shopping street lined with traditional Japanese shops.
Nezu Museum - Stunning. From the gardens to the building to the collection of pre-modern Japanese and East Asian art. While there, we were treated to Irises By Ogata Kōrin, a Japanese masterpieces not always on display.
Shinjuku - Where to go to party (if more into bars than clubs). It’s home to small winding streets with bars upon bars and restaurants upon restaurants. We ate delicious pizza at Rize Mize and then walked to Golden Gai, where 300 gay bars cram into a five block radius.
Day trip to Nikko - We’d originally planned to spend a few days, and there is plenty to do for a few days, but changed it to a day trip when Curtis decided to head home early. We took the Tobu Spacia train, which took about 90 minutes. Very nice. You must reserve your seat ahead of time. In Nikko we walked to Toshogu, one of several but the town primary shrine. It’s a long walk, so busses are available. We walked too several other temples in the area, ending up for dinner, at Mihashi steakhouse. It was a holiday so many of the towns restaurants were closed, but we were not disappointed. It was a long day, but worth the trip.
There is so much more to do in Tokyo, but this should get you started. Enjoy!
Notes:
All photos taken by Curtis Blessing or me.
I’ve put daily pics and video on Instagram, mostly in my stories, so follow me there for a day by day account.
Hit me up with thoughts or questions in the comments.
Thanks for reading. Next stop, Okinawa… 🛫
Enjoy your solo travel. I'm sure you will have a wonderful time exploring the rest of Japan and Seoul. There are definitely some benefits of solo travel such as spending how much or little time visiting sites as you desire. For me, it also encouraged me to make more connections and talk with strangers since I couldn't just rely on talking with my travel companion. I found doing a few organized group day trips useful if you are starting to feel a bit lonely. Have fun and I look forward to reading about the rest of your adventures.
You will enjoy your solo trip! I'm sure! You will see that there are a lot of good sides in it! Plus Japan and Korea are amazing!